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<p>
268元,可以喫3.5元一碗的熱乾麪76碗,老闆還要找個零;可以在金錢豹、金鯊、上井等類似中高檔自助餐廳,任選一家“海喫”一頓;還可以到美容店裏躺上兩小時,美個容養個生;但,也有人拿這268塊錢,喝上一小杯頂級咖啡,品品舌尖上的奢華。</p>
<p>
現狀</p>
<p>
武漢“貓屎”一年賣不了一斤</p>
<p>
2011年,貓屎咖啡在武昌南國首義匯開張,彭芳自稱是第一個將高檔貓屎店帶進武漢的人,現在她是武漢貓屎咖啡有限公司城市經理。</p>
<p>
據彭芳介紹,貓屎咖啡又叫麝香貓咖啡,“麝香貓”是印尼人俗稱的一種樹棲野生動物。麝香貓喫下成熟的咖啡果實,經過消化系統排出體外,工人再從其糞便中提取出咖啡豆加工成貓屎咖啡。經過麝香貓腸胃的發酵過程,咖啡豆產生了神奇的變化,泡出的咖啡風味獨特,特別醇香。但也因產量有限,精細化製作,其售價很高,被列入世界奢侈品行列。</p>
<p>
彭芳店內,一小杯貓屎咖啡就賣到268元,約200ml。店裏還有木盒包裝的貓屎咖啡粉,40克的售價爲888元,200克的售價爲2688元,兩種都另配一套器材。</p>
<p>
在咖啡行家看來,貓屎咖啡無疑是咖啡中的頂級享受。目前,武漢有兩家貓屎咖啡店,另一家在徐東。然而,兩家店的銷量都不盡如人意。</p>
<p>
據瞭解,彭芳店內的貓屎咖啡一年的銷量不到一斤,進店消費一杯268元貓屎咖啡的顧客也在少數。</p>
<p>
彭芳告訴記者,國內現有48家貓屎咖啡店,上海的貓屎咖啡銷量較好。當地一家貓屎咖啡店一個月的營業額都有十幾萬。</p>
<p>
商家:</p>
<p>
謀劃逆市擴張</p>
<p>
十來家分店</p>
<p>
銷量不好,彭芳認爲不是武漢人消費不起,而是消費者對貓屎咖啡的認識度不高,且初選的店址較偏,沒有引起大家注意。</p>
<p>
據瞭解,在武漢消費貓屎咖啡的人羣主要是金領、白領,年齡一般在28~50歲間,女性居多,她們經濟條件都不錯,對國外高端產品有一定了解,有個人喜好和品位。</p>
<p>
目前,彭芳正在武漢其他地區選址,準備再開分店。問到大概開幾家分店,她稱可能“十來家”。</p>
<p>
記者在一家美食評價網上看到,該店36條點評中,僅有三人稱進店喝了貓屎咖啡,另有七人表示想喝貓屎咖啡,但因價格太貴,“忍痛割捨”。而其他人消費的多是一般咖啡飲品。</p>
<p>
專家:</p>
<p>
少了“炫耀功能”</p>
<p>
貓屎賣不動?</p>
<p>
價格偏高是很多人不接受貓屎的原因。劉小姐也愛喝咖啡,但她認爲,花大幾千塊錢買咖啡喝不划算,相比之下,她更願意選實用,且用時長的東西,“我寧願加點錢去買個名牌錢包,用得更久,朋友看得到也有面子。”</p>
<p>
除了價格,貓屎咖啡的特殊製法也受到很多人質疑。消費者胡先生就覺得:“怎麼說也是動物的排泄物,想想就覺得心裏發毛,我肯定不會去喝。”</p>
<p>
華中師範大學教授梅志罡認爲,高檔咖啡難PK名牌包,跟大衆不成熟的消費觀相關。貓屎咖啡是小衆範圍內的高端消費品,跟名牌包比起來,它的炫耀功能不明顯。</p>
<p>
“喝一杯名貴咖啡,沒人看,只能自己感受它的味道,它的內在價值體現更完全,但它的炫耀功能難實現。”梅志罡認爲,奢侈品的消費,成熟的消費觀應該更重視個人對消費品的獨特體驗,感受其內在的高端、精緻享受,而不是爲了給別人看。</p>
(責任編輯:獅子座)</td>
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) |
urlrule |
'/views-104-[page].html' |
fix_html_now_url |
'' |
my_web_url |
'https://test.gafei.com/views-104' |
get |
array (
's' => 'article',
'c' => 'show',
'id' => '104',
'm' => 'index',
) |