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'手選:是將附着在美味咖啡豆中的雜質與不良豆子去除的步驟。咖啡豆中常會混入異物,例如石頭、木屑、金屬片、土粒、樹的果實等,有時還有硬幣和玻璃片。 在咖啡生產地都會用比重選豆機(利用風力依照顆粒大小與重量分類)或是電子選豆機(依顏色調除瑕疵豆)防止' |
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'<p>
手選:是將附着在美味咖啡豆中的雜質與不良豆子去除的步驟。咖啡豆中常會混入異物,例如石頭、木屑、金屬片、土粒、樹的果實等,有時還有硬幣和玻璃片。</p>
<p>
在咖啡生產地都會用比重選豆機(利用風力依照顆粒大小與重量分類)或是電子選豆機(依顏色調除瑕疵豆)防止雜質與瑕疵豆混入,但是防不勝防也是理所當然,還是必須靠人的雙手挑選。</p>
<p>
特別是未熟豆很難透過機器挑選去除,必須用手纔行。而且這些未熟豆對於咖啡的味道會產生極不良的影響。瑕疵豆除了未熟豆外,還有死豆、蟲蛀豆、黑豆、發黴豆、貝殼豆、發酵豆、破裂豆、帶殼豆、可可等。</p>
<p>
手選在生豆階段進行一次,烘焙過後再一次,意思就是烘焙前後各進行一次。瑕疵豆的比例令人意外的高,優良的咖啡豆一般約含有20%左右,精製度低的摩卡等更是高過40%。也就是說烘焙過後大約只剩下六七成的咖啡豆可以使用,換句話說呢,一百克的生豆中會有三十到四十克的失敗品,這相當浪費。要減少烘焙失敗率,必須儘量購買高精度的優質咖啡豆;若仍舊害怕烘焙失敗,調除瑕疵豆的步驟就不能偷懶。瑕疵豆是咖啡味道的致命傷。</p>
<p>
以手摘法採收成熟變紅的咖啡果實,照理說瑕疵豆混入的比率應該會低很多,然而實際上收成時會連同青色未成熟的果實也摘下來,有時候,爲了追求採收效率,連樹枝也一起折下。而水洗式咖啡因爲精製過程必須經過多次水洗,所以較難混入石頭、玻璃片等雜質,但若是非水洗式的自然乾燥法咖啡,雜質混入的程度相當高。</p>
<p>
烘焙咖啡時混入過多瑕疵豆,咖啡成品會出現顏色斑駁的情況。與正常的豆子相比,瑕疵豆氧化的速度異常快速,有事烘焙過後會呈現白色。在超市或 咖啡店等店面常會販售便宜的咖啡豆,將那些包裝打開一看,大多可以發現其中混入了相當多烘焙不均的豆子,這都是因爲省略了手選步驟直接烘焙而產生的結果。</p>
<p>
要了解手選步驟的重要性,最快的方法就是杯測之用瑕疵豆烘焙萃取的咖啡液。喝下之後你會發現舌頭會持續麻痹數小時。由此可證,手選是製作出美味咖啡不可或缺的重要步驟。大家往往將手選視爲單調、無聊、無意義的行爲而等閒視之,我覺得相當可惜。但我希望大家瞭解,瑕疵豆所造成的味道破壞是不論如何高明的烘焙技術都隱藏不住的。爲了讓烘焙順利進行,事前的手選步驟相當重要。</p>
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