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'<p>
1910年，滇越鐵路的小火車開進昆明，很多頭一次到昆明的外國人發現這裏竟有正宗的西餐廳。“無利不起早”，還在鐵路修築之時，一些搞餐飲的法國人和越南人已經看到了昆明的西餐商機，率先進入了昆明。</p>
<p>
不過，根據記載，這些西餐廳是憋足了勁要賺大錢的，每人就餐價格最少要一塊大洋，註定與一般百姓無緣。故而生意有限，時時都有倒閉關門的消息。</p>
<p>
20多年後，金碧路上又開張了一家西餐廳，名字叫“新越”，顧名思義，是越南人開的，女老闆名叫阮民宣，據說是越南太原的名門望族之後。</p>
<p>
“新越”西餐廳內部裝潢考究，火車座的就餐環境放到今天也不過時。菜也不錯，廚師竟然能用豬肉做出海味的“蚌殼肉”。可那時昆明的內需和現在也一樣拉動不起來，不菲的價格讓人望而卻步。</p>
<p>
這樣的情況下，“新越”沒過幾年就改名爲“南來盛咖啡館”，專賣越南咖啡和西式點心，它的法式硬殼麪包很有特色。一下子，“南來盛”在昆明聲名鵲起，成了普羅大衆品嚐咖啡的時尚場所。</p>
<p>
就是在抗戰時期，儘管昆明大後方民生艱難，南來盛也照樣熙熙攘攘。西南聯大的沈從文請胡適在這喝咖啡，華僑領袖陳嘉庚也來過。不過大家可能都沒注意過一個經常不在店中的越南面包師，他就是後來越南的領袖胡志明。</p>
<p>
胡志明於1940年來到昆明做地下工作，就以南來盛麪包師的公開身份領導着越南人民的革命。直到現在，南來盛老闆娘阮民宣的身世對我們來說還是一個謎，而她爲祖國未來保護着的這個人，後來終於成爲了越南人民的希望。</p>
<p>
1956年，南來盛被公私合營，即便在後來瘋狂的年代，南來盛“資產階級情調”的咖啡依然在昆明飄香。後來“爲工農兵服務”，南來盛又增加了昆明的米線，還有一種越南炒麪，把稍微煮過的麪條炒香，澆上一勺用肉絲、香菇等製成的蓋澆汁，老遠就能聞到香味。</p>
<p>
直到上世紀90年代，昆明城市改造，南來盛搬了幾個地方，就銷聲匿跡了。後來，我們才知道，在國外的《世界旅遊雜誌》上，南來盛是最早被雜誌推薦的昆明唯一餐館。</p>
<p>
胡志明主席在越南人民中的威望至今不減，鄰省廣西把他居住工作過的地方闢爲保護對象，吸引着到中國的越南人民前來瞻仰。可是，我家昆明，南來盛的名字，被麥當勞、星巴克所稀釋代替，漸漸淡忘。</p>
<p>
風之末端老昆明閒話系列，李傳志繪畫。從2008年1月每週二在《雲南信息報》刊登，歡迎大家指正!</p>
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