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'深度好文 | 一篇文章讀懂中國的“咖啡”生態'

'/uploads/allimg/170415/3-1F415145Ic18.jpg'

'深度,好文,一篇,文章,讀懂,中國,咖啡,生態,中國,自古,'

'中國自古以茶爲飲，咖啡作爲舶來品，真正開始嶄露頭角是1997年，雕刻時光在北京大學東門和清華大學西門之間的成府街上開了第一家店。這家店的地理位置說明了一切：那時大家對於咖啡廳的概念還是混沌的：中國本土不具備咖啡文化，而只有咖啡館文化，所以關於'

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'2017-04-15 15:00:35'

'2017-04-15 15:00:32'

'97885'

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'<p>
	<span style="font-size:20px;">&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;中國自古以茶爲飲，咖啡作爲舶來品，真正開始嶄露頭角是1997年，雕刻時光在北京大學東門和清華大學西門之間的成府街上開了第一家店。這家店的地理位置說明了一切：那時大家對於咖啡廳的概念還是混沌的：中國本土不具備咖啡文化，而只有&ldquo;咖啡館文化&rdquo;，所以關於咖啡的一切都是具象的，中國的咖啡商業模式，是一種相對純粹的體驗經濟。換句話說，它不只是咖啡本身，它是雕刻時光的啞光招牌，它是星巴克門口的綠色遮陽傘，是漫咖啡裏面的小熊和木製座椅。</span></p>
<p>
	<span style="font-size:20px;">&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;星巴克：中國咖啡行業的永恆底色</span></p>
<p>
	<span style="font-size:20px;">&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;而到了1999年，星巴克第一家在大陸的門店開在北京國貿。星巴克當年大肆的營銷和飛速的擴張給中國咖啡行業帶來了什麼呢？在很長一段時間咖啡與星巴克這兩個名詞可以直接劃等號，若有人非要矯情區分，那感覺就像非說新浪微博和微博不是一回事。</span></p>
<p>
	&nbsp;</p>
<div style="text-align: center;">
	<span style="font-size:20px;"><img src="/uploads/allimg/170415/3-1F415145Ic18.jpg" style="width: 600px; height: 357px;" /></span></div>
<p>
	&nbsp;</p>
<p>
	<span style="font-size:20px;">&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;星巴克還帶來什麼了影響呢，那就是咖啡廳非得有那麼點造型感。你沒有落地窗，小綠傘，內飾不是流光燈，小吧檯都不好意思管自己叫咖啡廳。在歐美國家，喝咖啡是習慣，無論多不起眼的小門臉，門口照樣是站着五六成羣喝咖啡的人。星巴克起價不菲，所以在當時的中國，年輕人花三十幾買一杯咖啡，不在裏面坐一會思索下人生，心疼能疼一天。所以星巴克給咖啡廳的形象設立了門檻，你可以比它好看，但要是更簡樸，那生意可能就會很慘淡。 還有就是大家對咖啡的價格也不那麼較真，星巴克以國際大品牌把價格標杆插在那，品牌溢價很高。這倒算是對中國咖啡行業的發展有那麼點好處：餐飲人發現咖啡行業是個賺錢的好門路，一杯咖啡加點小食，客單輕鬆破百，操作流程簡單，成本也比其他餐飲業態容易控制，就這樣漸漸地，大街小巷，咖啡廳開始如雨後春筍般冒出，其中也包括一些比較成規模的韓式咖啡品牌。</span></p>
<p>
	<span style="font-size:20px;">&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;總結起來，中國咖啡行業就是在一種矇昧的狀態下被星巴克和Costa等歐美品牌推搡着，被漫咖啡，咖啡陪你等這樣的韓式咖啡品牌誘惑着一步步發展。而中國咖啡消費的特點也漸漸明顯：對於品牌的追求大於口味；對於環境的計較多過價格；人們去咖啡廳的休閒目的屬性多過對於咖啡本身的硬性需求。</span></p>
<p>
	<span style="font-size:20px;">&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;趨勢：星巴克們 PK 慢咖啡們</span></p>
<p>
	<span style="font-size:20px;">&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;中國咖啡行業的興起一方面有歐美品牌強行推擠之嫌，一方面又有其必然的合理性。首先，咖啡作爲世界三大飲品之首，每年在日本、韓國年人均銷量約300杯，而世界平均值也在240杯左右。中國咖啡行業經過十幾年的發展，也只有人均5杯的水平，未來的發展空間依然廣闊。2013年的統計顯示，全國有13600家咖啡館，市場的增長率高達15%-20%，預計到2015年咖啡市場份額可達到501億元。</span></p>
<p>
	<span style="font-size:20px;">目前國內的咖啡細分市場有四個主要類型：以星巴克、Costa以及太平洋咖啡爲首的商務式咖啡廳；以漫咖啡，咖啡陪你爲代表的休閒風格咖啡廳；以上島咖啡，咖啡之翼爲代表的簡餐式咖啡廳，以及近來逐漸興起的深入各種單領域的&ldquo;特色咖啡&rdquo;。</span></p>
<p>
	<span style="font-size:20px;">&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;上島類咖啡廳其實以簡餐爲主打，咖啡只是爲幫助其定位人羣的工具，目前的發展也頗遇瓶頸。</span></p>
<p>
	<span style="font-size:20px;">&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;特色咖啡領域有車庫咖啡、3W咖啡、貝塔咖啡等專門爲有辦公需求人士提供辦公環境兼賣咖啡，魚眼兒咖啡、質館咖啡則着力於推廣精品咖啡，還有提供咖啡外送服務的參差咖啡和連咖啡等等。這些專注細分市場的創業咖啡館情況還尚未明朗。動點科技曾對北京、上海、廣州、深圳、成都、杭州等地的近20家創業咖啡館進行報道，這些咖啡大多數在2011年底、2012年初開業，但除了廣州貝塔微微盈利外，其他咖啡館均未實現盈利。</span></p>
<p>
	<span style="font-size:20px;">&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;商務式咖啡則鎖定Shopping Mall 和高端寫字樓區域，專供高級白領和小資羣體小憩，然而也真的是小憩，現在這類咖啡廳的外帶率和翻檯率都較高，店鋪面積小，也因爲客流量大比較嘈雜，所以更多的小資羣體開始轉戰另一種咖啡廳類型&mdash;&mdash;休閒風格咖啡廳。</span></p>
<p>
	&nbsp;</p>
<div style="text-align: center;">
	<span style="font-size:20px;"><img src="/uploads/allimg/170415/3-1F415145J92V.jpg" style="width: 600px; height: 399px;" /></span></div>
<p>
	&nbsp;</p>
<p>
	<span style="font-size:20px;">&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;以漫咖啡舉例，明亮充分的室內空間，休閒的裝修風格，一些美味小食的供應，甚至公園、小區周邊的選址，都是爲了滿足目標羣體的需求：一個可以休息、交流的第三空間。 以未來中國咖啡市場的發展趨勢來看，商務咖啡和休閒咖啡類型仍然是主流。</span></p>
<p>
	<span style="font-size:20px;">&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;商務咖啡玩法：選址肉搏，資本競爭</span></p>
<p>
	<span style="font-size:20px;">&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;商務咖啡間的競爭是殘酷的，由星巴克、Costa、太平洋咖啡三家巨頭主導，開啓了以圈地爲核心，兼以標榜咖啡品質，渲染企業文化的市場爭奪模式。 星巴克作爲咖啡巨頭，品牌還是絕對強勢，但是面對資本實力同樣雄厚的競爭對手，流點血也就在所難免。由於中國消費者的關於咖啡的一切心智已經先行被星巴克佔據，Costa和太平洋咖啡的首選競爭方式就是務實的在選址上直接貼身肉搏。大家會逐漸發現Costa到處都有哦，應該是大品牌吧，味道好像也沒差誒。於是策略成功，這樣的方式在中國這種咖啡品牌大於口味的消費階段正中紅心。 但這種做法需要有經濟支持，怎麼開這麼多店？答案很現實：有錢任性。太平洋背後是華潤，Costa背後是華聯，它們本身有很多資源或者本身是購物中心，直接就可以開。</span></p>
<p>
	&nbsp;</p>
<div style="text-align: center;">
	<span style="font-size:20px;"><img src="/uploads/allimg/170415/3-1F415145K5328.jpg" style="width: 600px; height: 340px;" /></span></div>
<p>
	&nbsp;</p>
<p>
	<span style="font-size:20px;">&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;同時，各家也就誰做的咖啡真正代表高品質這一問題展開了激烈的爭論，太平洋咖啡標榜用工匠精神做咖啡，Costa強調自己纔是來自深具咖啡文化基因的歐洲品牌，並且選用的咖啡豆的品質更好。星巴克則大方表示，我們最大的競爭利器，就是是世界範圍內高品質的烘焙技術和咖啡資源。</span></p>
<p>
	<span style="font-size:20px;">&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;不得不承認大牌之間的競爭確實甩開創業公司很遠，無論是星巴克還是Costa,其能真正深入人心原因其實是咖啡和一切配套環境質量的可預見性。筆者曾經做過一個調查，現在絕大多數顧客選擇去這類咖啡廳的原因就是，咖啡的水平穩定：每一家的口味是可以保證在一定水準範圍內的，無論你是出差到上海，還是在北京。而在這樣的&ldquo;品質的可預見性&rdquo;的背後，是強大的資金流（用於統一昂貴的咖啡機器，店面選址、裝璜），通暢的管理、供應鏈條，以及高效的企業文化做支撐的。</span></p>
<p>
	<span style="font-size:20px;">&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;休閒咖啡：深挖第三空間的商業價值</span></p>
<p>
	<span style="font-size:20px;">&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;&ldquo;中國人很喜歡聚集在一起，不管是聊天也好，喫飯也好，都需要一個場合，這個地點是除了公司和家之外的第三個目的地。&rdquo;這是漫咖啡換創始人辛子相對第三空間概念的理解，而休閒咖啡廳的出現以及興起，也是遵循着這一核心邏輯。</span></p>
<p>
	&nbsp;</p>
<div style="text-align: center;">
	<span style="font-size:20px;"><img src="/uploads/allimg/170415/3-1F415145P1924.jpg" style="width: 600px; height: 450px;" /></span></div>
<p>
	&nbsp;</p>
<p>
	<span style="font-size:20px;">&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;這些年，豆瓣和微博等社交網絡一直致力於營造互聯網上的社交空間，與此同時咖啡廳致力於爲人們打造着線下互動的舒適空間。同時，移動辦公的興起也爲休閒咖啡廳吸引來了許多忙碌着的人們，咖啡廳從僅承擔第三空間的職能，漸漸向提供工作空間擴展。</span></p>
<p>
	<span style="font-size:20px;">&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;所以，如果說&ldquo;品質的可預見性&rdquo;是商務咖啡大品牌的經營邏輯，那麼爲人們營造一個能舒服坐下來工作或者說話的空間，是休閒咖啡的核心邏輯。</span></p>
<p>
	<span style="font-size:20px;">&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;由於目標羣體的區別，休閒咖啡廳選址主要集中於居民區，大學和公園附近，這樣的地方租金相對較低，也使它的發展具備更多的可能。</span></p>
<p>
	<span style="font-size:20px;">&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;但是休閒咖啡廳的生意真的好做嗎？一篇報道中提到咖啡廳老闆們的抱怨多是成本高，收益低，消費者不買賬。咖啡廳絕對不是一個前期成本投入低的行業，即使各位掌櫃不去PK那些巨頭，各種昂貴的專業設備，包括咖啡機，烘焙機，磨豆機等等，加上比其他業態要求更高的店面裝潢，以及專業咖啡師傅的聘請，都是高額成本的一部分。如果這時候還有消費者不買你的賬，抱怨咖啡貴，喝不出來雀巢和現磨的區別，那各位咖啡廳掌櫃也只能打碎牙和血吞。</span></p>
<p>
	<span style="font-size:20px;">&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;現在咖啡行業雖然發展空間巨大，但是競爭激烈，對於品牌的甄別性要求非常高。新創的咖啡品牌無法與巨頭拼&ldquo;品牌認知度&rdquo;，如果又經營不出特色來，就不會變成愉悅的創業體驗。而真正的&ldquo;經營特色&rdquo;是建立在對行業深度的瞭解基礎之上的，所以喝咖啡可能是件放鬆的事，但作爲行業中人，還是要做好喫苦的準備。</span></p>
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'深度,好文,一篇,文章,讀懂,中國,咖啡,生態,中國,自古'

'中國自古以茶爲飲，咖啡作爲舶來品，真正開始嶄露頭角是1997年，雕刻時光在北京大學東門和清華大學西門之間的成府街上開了第一家店。這家店的地理位置說明了一切：那時大家對於咖啡廳的概念還是混沌的：中國本土不具備咖啡文化，而只有咖啡館文化，所以關於'

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