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'<p>
上世紀90年代中期,Stuart Freedman首次踏上德里的土地時驚呆了。這位常駐倫敦的攝影師曾到過南亞和中東地區,但熙熙攘攘的印度首都仍然讓他猝不及防。所以當他發現自己置身於Baba Kharak Singh Marg街上的印度咖啡館(Indian Coffee House)裏那寬敞舒適的臺階上的時候,他覺得自己和難民沒什麼兩樣。</p>
<center>
</center>
<p style="text-align: center; ">
<img alt="" src="/uploads/allimg/151006/3-151006160015210.png" /></p>
<p>
印度咖啡館(圖片來源:Stuart Freedman)“大家都挺彬彬有禮,生活節奏也不快。很多年後,咖啡館的常客告訴我,咖啡館就是一個‘安全閥’,你可以隨意進出,自由交談,或者就只靜靜地待着。”Freedman在郵件裏寫道。</p>
<p>
隨後幾年裏,只要因工作有機會經過印度,Freedman都會稍作停留,在這些工人所有的國內咖啡館網點裏頭待一會兒。但直至2010年,Freedman瞭解到德里的咖啡館正面臨關閉危機之時,他才萌生了拍攝這些咖啡館的念頭。</p>
<p>
Freedman說,“我瞭解得越多,就越想知道爲什麼這些破舊不起眼的小地方能得到那麼多人的關注。我覺得這將是一本優秀的作品集。”</p>
<center>
<img alt="" height="386" src="http://n1.itc.cn/img8/wb/smccloud/recom/2015/10/05/144401100173819579.JPEG" width="580" /></center>
<p>
Shimla的印度咖啡館(圖片來源:Stuart Freedman)</p>
<center>
<img alt="" height="432" src="http://n1.itc.cn/img8/wb/smccloud/recom/2015/10/05/144401100234860472.JPEG" width="580" /></center>
<p>
左:新德里印度咖啡館的常客Kumar先生 右:Kolkata的印度咖啡館(圖片來源:Stuart Freedman)</p>
<center>
<img alt="" height="386" src="http://n1.itc.cn/img8/wb/smccloud/recom/2015/10/05/144401100298417921.JPEG" width="580" /></center>
<p>
Kolkata的印度咖啡館(圖片來源:Stuart Freedman)9月,Dewi Lewis出版社出版了Freedman的作品集《記憶的宮殿:印度咖啡館的故事》(The Palaces of Memory: Tales From the Indian Coffee House)。Freedman花了5年時間,拍攝了全印度超過30家最好看最知名的咖啡館。</p>
<p>
1940年代,印度咖啡委員會(India’s Coffee Board)設立了咖啡攤,後來又在全國建了不少印度咖啡館。在這些咖啡館裏頭,你常常能聽見人們談論薩蒂亞吉特·雷伊(Satyajit Ray)、李維克·伽塔克(Ritwik Ghatak)和Subhash Mukhopadhyay等印度藝術大師。學者也常常在Kolkata的咖啡館中碰面。印度獨立運動時期,政治也是咖啡館的熱門話題。</p>
<p>
Freedman說,“如此說來,這家咖啡館乃至全國各地的咖啡館其實就是巴黎左岸地區咖啡館和開羅Ahwas咖啡屋的結合體。有趣的是,每一處咖啡館都有其獨特的氛圍。Shimla和Allahabad的咖啡館裏常有成羣的律師,而在德里,你更容易看見政客和記者。現在,德里的咖啡館也吸引着一大批熱情四溢的年輕學子和活躍分子。”</p>
<p>
但在上世紀50年代,印度咖啡委員會關閉了其中一些咖啡館。在這之後,印度共產黨領袖A.K. Gopalan將咖啡館改爲了工人合作社制。如今,他們有人歡喜有人憂。在印度北部,人們正在經歷“美國式的資本主義”,這些咖啡館也愈發過時,與尼赫魯(賈瓦哈拉爾·尼赫魯,印度獨立後第一任總理)式社會主義時期聯繫在一起。而在印度的南部地區,咖啡館提供餐點,與飯館更爲相似。德里的咖啡館也在與西方“壯志雄心的咖啡館”——如星巴克等——的競爭中忙得不可開交。</p>
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<img alt="" height="432" src="http://n1.itc.cn/img8/wb/smccloud/recom/2015/10/05/144401100357921576.JPEG" width="580" /></center>
<p>
左:Chertala的印度咖啡館 右:Jaipur印度咖啡館的服務員Sri Kumar先生</p>
<p>
(圖片來源:Stuart Freedman)</p>
<center>
<img alt="" height="386" src="http://n1.itc.cn/img8/wb/smccloud/recom/2015/10/05/144401100404443361.JPEG" width="580" /></center>
<p>
Kottayam集市裏的印度咖啡館(圖片來源:Stuart Freedman)咖啡館是印度歷史和當代變化的一個縮影,不過對於Freedman來說,它們是瞭解印度人的日常生活的窗口。</p>
<p>
“作爲一名年輕的記者,咖啡館對我來說是走進印度的第一步。這裏的文化錯綜複雜,咖啡館提供了一個入口。人們對印度的印象不外乎這樣的陳詞濫調——新奇得近乎荒謬,窮得不像是真的——但從咖啡館中看到的印度恰恰與之相反。我很懷疑那些自稱“瞭解”印度的記者——或者說實在的,自稱瞭解任何國家的人——我不會假裝十分了解這個國家,但在這裏的咖啡館裏,那些你在大街上聽得一頭霧水的觀點和想法都能找到答案。”</p>
<center>
<img alt="" height="386" src="http://n1.itc.cn/img8/wb/smccloud/recom/2015/10/05/144401100473821525.JPEG" width="580" /></center>
<p>
Kolkata印度咖啡館的泰戈爾畫像(圖片來源:Stuart Freedman)</p>
<center>
<img alt="" height="432" src="http://n1.itc.cn/img8/wb/smccloud/recom/2015/10/05/144401100535860470.JPEG" width="580" /></center>
<p>
左:Kolkata的印度咖啡館 右:新德里的印度咖啡館(圖片來源:Stuart Freedman)</p>
<p>
(翻譯:潘金花)</p>
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array (
),
),
323 =>
array (
'id' => '323',
'pid' => '2',
'pids' => '0,1,2',
'name' => '7月資訊',
'dirname' => '7yuezixun',
'pdirname' => 'kafeixinwen/zixun/',
'child' => 0,
'childids' => 323,
'thumb' => '',
'show' => '1',
'setting' =>
array (
'edit' => 1,
'disabled' => 0,
'getchild' => 1,
'linkurl' => '',
'urlrule' => 3,
'seo' =>
array (
'list_title' => '[第{page}頁{join}]{catpname}{join}{modname}{join}{SITE_NAME}',
'list_keywords' => '',
'list_description' => '',
),
'template' =>
array (
'pagesize' => 20,
'mpagesize' => 20,
'page' => 'page.html',
'list' => 'list.html',
'category' => 'category.html',
'search' => 'search.html',
'show' => 'show.html',
),
'cat_field' => '',
'module_field' => '',
'html' => 0,
),
'displayorder' => '0',
'acount' => '1',
'namerule' => '{typedir}{Y}{M}{D}{aid}.html',
'namerule2' => '{typedir}/list_{tid}_{page}.html',
'mid' => 'article',
'pcatpost' => 1,
'topid' => '1',
'domain' => '',
'catids' =>
array (
0 => '323',
),
'is_post' => 1,
'mobile_domain' => '',
'tid' => 1,
'url' => 'https://gafei.com/list-7yuezixun.html',
'total' => 1,
'field' =>
array (
),
),
) |
urlrule |
'/views-40998-[page].html' |
fix_html_now_url |
'' |
my_web_url |
'https://test.gafei.com/views-40998' |
get |
array (
's' => 'article',
'c' => 'show',
'id' => '40998',
'm' => 'index',
) |