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'咖啡衝煮方式 粉量控制（補充）以及壓粉 做好意式咖啡的標準'

'/uploads/160108/2-16010Q14612O9.jpg'

'咖啡,衝煮,方式,粉量,控制,補充,以及,壓粉,好意,標準,'

'提到過刮片， 它可以讓你控制粉量， 但缺點是會浪費粉量。 提到過刮片， 它可以讓你控制粉量， 但缺點是會浪費粉量。 其實， 它還有一個侷限性， 如果一個濾碗可以裝18g粉， 刮片只能靠颳去粉的多少來控制粉量。因此18g的粉碗上限只有18g。 當然， 有些咖啡'

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'2016-01-08 11:46:00'

'2016-01-08 11:44:46'

'47848'

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'<p>
	　　提到過刮片， 它可以讓你控制粉量， 但缺點是會浪費粉量。</p>
<center>
	<img alt="粉量控制（補充）以及壓粉" src="http://s1.sinaimg.cn/mw690/003Fa9rYgy6KxsDcLeg00" /></center>
<p>
	　　提到過刮片， 它可以讓你控制粉量， 但缺點是會浪費粉量。</p>
<p>
	　　其實， 它還有一個侷限性， 如果一個濾碗可以裝18g粉， 刮片只能靠颳去粉的多少來控制粉量。因此18g的粉碗上限只有18g。</p>
<p>
	　　當然， 有些咖啡師知道， 通過拍打裝了咖啡粉的濾碗可以讓咖啡粉下沉，從而增加粉量。 但很多人可能不知道的是， 這在大約10年前，絕大多數咖啡師聞所未聞加粉這個概念(updosing) 。</p>
<p>
	　　實際上， 澳大利亞唯一一位世界百瑞斯塔冠軍Paul Basset在2003年正是通過添加粉量的技術讓他獲得了第一名， 而爲此當時的Tim Wendelboe(2004 年的世界冠軍)提出了質疑。</p>
<p>
	　　最後的結果是， 以咖啡的口感作爲判斷依據， 而且沒有說， 裝粉只能裝14g。 從我認知度來看， 實際上大分量正是從那個時候是開始的。</p>
<p>
	　　我在下面話題之前， 我幫大家再整理一下。</p>
<p>
	　　1. 如果研磨機設定好了， 咖啡機的參數是恆定的，當天使用的是同樣咖啡豆，概念上講 那麼唯一可以改變咖啡萃取的則是粉量。</p>
<p>
	　　2. 粉量在0.5g以上可以改變咖啡的流速， 只有0.3g以下， 口感上纔會基本一致。</p>
<p>
	　　3. 我們需要用一種方式來控制粉量。 因爲現在市面上絕大多數的研磨機都無法讓粉量控制在這個泛指之內。</p>
<p>
	　　4. Scottie在2006發明了刮片， 通過不同弧度來控制粉量。</p>
<p>
	　　5. 刮片的缺陷已經說明， 無法加粉， 而且容易浪費。</p>
<p>
	　　6. Paul Basset的敲擊或者(墩)手柄給我們大粉量帶來了可能。 鑑於第4點， 不同弧度相對控制粉量， 以及第6點， 粉量的可否通過做加法， 而非減法來控制?辦法出來了。</p>
<p>
	　　假設：</p>
<p>
	　　如果在接粉接到一半的時候，墩1下，然後接完該接的粉， 那時候粉堆出了一個小山， 再墩1下。我們可以簡稱(11)</p>
<p>
	　　如果在接粉接到一半的時候，不墩，然後接完該接的粉， 那時候粉依舊堆出了一個小山， 再墩1下。 我們可以簡稱(01)</p>
<p>
	　　那麼很顯然， 11會比01多出一點點粉。</p>
<p>
	　　大約是多少呢， 因粉碗大小而不同。 但一般情況下， 大約會在0.2-0.3g的調節。</p>
<p>
	　　再接着， 如果在接粉接到一半的時候，墩1下，然後接完該接的粉， 那時候粉還是堆出了一個小山， 再墩2下。我們可以簡稱(12)</p>
<p>
	　　由於有了小山的時候墩， 要比粉一半時候重， 那麼12則又會比11粉多出大約0.2g</p>
<p>
	　　簡言之， 墩的次數可以進行粉量的微調。</p>
<center>
	<img alt="粉量控制（補充）以及壓粉" src="http://s11.sinaimg.cn/mw690/003Fa9rYgy6KxsFkWsG8a" /></center>
<p>
	　　因爲墩濾碗使得濾碗上的粉下沉， 這意味着你可以裝更多的粉。 你墩的越多， 你抹去多餘的粉也就越少。</p>
<p>
	　　從00， 01， 10, 11， 21， 22這樣等比例上升， 使得你也相應的控制粉量。</p>
<p>
	　　例如， 你發現，在01的時候， 你的流速在22秒中萃取出了25ml的espresso， 你發現質感偏薄。</p>
<p>
	　　那麼或許你在調節研磨機之前， 可以稍許嘗試增加粉量來增加其質感和粘稠度。 那麼最簡單的方法則是由原來的01變成11， 那麼你的流速會稍許變慢的，因爲粉量稍許增加了。</p>
<p>
	　　這個系統或許剛剛看有一些複雜， 但真正理解和掌握了， 你除了需要做記錄， 基本上甚至可以不需要電子磅秤的。</p>
<p>
	　　而且， 可以讓你快速的調節好你需要的流速。</p>
<p>
	　　當然， 在這個操作前， 這裏有幾個要領需要掌握：</p>
<p>
	　　1. 每次墩的力量要一樣</p>
<p>
	　　2. 每次布粉的時候，要平抹， 因爲如果有任何壓力往下， 無形中又填裝了更多粉</p>
<p>
	　　3. 每次抹粉的動作要一致。</p>
<p>
	　　你抹去多餘的粉是用弧線抹的話，那自然意味着你抹去的粉， 要比直線的多。</p>
<p>
	　　以上三點需要大量的練習。</p>
<p>
	　　但請記住， 如果0.5g可以明顯改變流速， 那麼以上三點任何一點都可以輕易讓你的粉量超過0.5g誤差。 而在世界競技比賽中， 0.3g是咖啡師訓練的目標值。 但相反， 如果掌握好了這個技術， 你會發現非常的受益。 因爲你可以幾乎隨心隨意的微調自己的粉量。 並且保持一致。</p>
<p>
	　　其實， 澳洲這近十年，或許手法稍許不同， 但 所有的選手都用了這個方式， 這包括了Scottie 本人。</p>
<center>
	<img alt="粉量控制（補充）以及壓粉" src="http://s6.sinaimg.cn/mw690/003Fa9rYgy6KxsGgQPX45" /></center>
<p>
	　　Scottie在2010年WBC比賽， 也不再使用刮片。 而是靠&rdquo;墩&ldquo;的方式同時， 它的好處是， 一個咖啡師和另一個咖啡師交接班的時候， 告訴下一個咖啡師11，要比告訴他實際粉量的克重更容易上手。</p>
<p>
	　　或許這兩位咖啡師的墩的力量有差異， 但只需稍作調整，馬上就能保證粉量的一致性。 這個話題，顯得無趣很多。 但如果你是咖啡師， 更要參加比賽， 無論採用何種方法， 粉量的一致性是你必須要掌握的。</p>
<p>
	　　這不僅僅是比賽順利完成的保障， 也是你在咖啡店品控一致性的基本要求。 但我相信， 將來科技的發展，研磨機的改進， 以及更深遠的咖啡理解， 一定會有更科學的咖啡萃取系統。</p>
<p>
	　　但本質依舊不變， 就是你如何穩定的給你的顧客， 你的評委一杯好咖啡。 而這一點， 你，我都是需要與時俱進的。</p>
<p>
	　　下面說說壓粉</p>
<p>
	　　目的：通過一定的壓力讓鬆散的粉緊密， 以便讓加壓的熱水均勻滲透。</p>
<p>
	　　在這裏， 會牽扯到幾個問題， 實際上是一個矢量的問題。 壓粉的方向， 還有壓粉力量的大小。</p>
<p>
	　　壓粉的方向：(可能比我們想象的複雜一些)這是顯而易見的， 垂直向下。 如果壓斜了， 衝煮頭出來的高溫高壓熱水會尋求阻力最小的層面滲透， 造成萃取不均勻。 同時也容易有我們常說的通道效應。這一點我需解釋不需要太多。</p>
<p>
	　　但關於壓粉方向問題，會間接牽扯到另一問題， 即布粉的問題(grooming)。 我們之所以要布粉， 最大一個原因自然是粉量的控制，即把粉量分佈平， 多餘的粉量刮掉，那麼每次一樣的動作， 是能保證粉量一致的。</p>
<p>
	　　其實還有另一個原因，就是將粉分佈均勻。因爲一個傳統的理論是，衝煮頭的水是均勻滲透的， 因此粉要平， 壓粉要平， 從而萃取就均勻。</p>
<p>
	　　(也有人認爲， 從衝煮頭出來的水最後會集中在一點， 因此壓粉錘需要是弧形的， 但經過試驗和盲測， 兩者沒有本質差距)</p>
<p>
	　　有些人不這麼認爲。大家如果注意2008年Stephen Morrissey, 他實際上通過研磨機接粉後， 並沒有布粉。 當接粉堆出了一個錐形的小山後， 直接壓粉。</p>
<p>
	　　這個從coffeegeek 4月關於VST basket的發佈， 或多或少找到一些答案。</p>
<p>
	　　首先， 雖然我們出水是平均的，壓分也可以控制均勻分佈， 但一個很重要的硬件限制， 就是籃子。</p>
<p>
	　　首先看摘自coffeegeek的一個圖， 我們就可以看到， 絕大多數的basket 孔大大小小不一。</p>
<center>
	<img alt="粉量控制（補充）以及壓粉" src="http://s10.sinaimg.cn/mw690/003Fa9rYgy6KxsH2b6p19" /></center>
<p>
	　　其次， 大家有機會看咖啡手柄的basket， 實際上孔的分佈並不是均勻的， 而是中心比較密集， 邊緣比較稀疏。</p>
<p>
	　　換句話說， 中間被水滲透的機會要遠遠大約邊緣。</p>
<p>
	　　這，或多或少可以解釋Stephen在比賽時候， 不均勻布粉的原因了。因爲當堆出一個山錐時候， 粉的大多數集中在basket中央， 這樣可以補償萃取不均勻的問題。</p>
<p>
	　　也正因爲這個發現， VST把自己的basket孔大小，和分佈都非常均勻。從而申請了專利</p>
<p>
	　　(http://www.coffeegeek.com/opinions/markprince/04-29-2011 )</p>
<p>
	　　當然， 用了這個basket， 不布粉直接壓粉餅是不行的。</p>
<p>
	　　這也是新的basket在給coffeegeek實驗時， mark prince 不得不改變原先Stephen的做法。壓粉的力量 (可能比我們想的要簡單)最基本的問題力量多大，多少kg。</p>
<p>
	　　我以前聽過要25kg， 也聽說過意大利人視咖啡爲生命， 輕輕觸碰即可。在解釋這個問題， 一個最基本的問題需要糾正一下。</p>
<p>
	　　力量應當是通過牛頓來描述。(原因在後面解釋)</p>
<p>
	　　如果用牛頓來解釋，那麼我們首先轉化一下。</p>
<p>
	　　15kg是比較常用的描述，那麼轉化成牛頓單位， 則是15kg*9.8N/KG 也就是大約150N</p>
<p>
	　　下一步驟， 我們看一下9個大氣壓的水柱對咖啡粉餅產生多大的力量。 9個大氣壓意味着， 在單位平方米下， 產生相當於9個大氣壓的力量，也就是900KN/M^2</p>
<p>
	　　而我們一般的58mm直徑的粉餅面積則爲 (58/2/1000)^2*3.14 也就是大約0.00264平方米</p>
<p>
	　　那麼產生的壓力則爲 900*1000*0.00264即2380N</p>
<p>
	　　粉錘產生的150N和9個大氣壓的水流2380N相比， 明顯顯得微不足道了。</p>
<p>
	　　同時， 還有一個很重要的因素需要考量， 在2000年左右La Marzocco在設計Swift自動填充裝置時， 他們從2磅到30磅(也就是大約15kg)力量都做過實驗。 發現無論有多大的力量， 力量到了粉餅底部幾乎是不受力了。</p>
<p>
	　　這個好比汽車衝撞實驗， 車身的擠壓和變形本身就是吸收了能量的結果。</p>
<p>
	　　因此， 這兩點給我們得出的結論很簡單， 壓粉的力量大小並沒有太大關係， 只要把粉壓緊密即可。</p>
<p>
	　　同時每次壓粉力量保持一致更顯得重要。</p>
<p>
	　　後記：</p>
<p>
	　　北美系統稍許不同， 更多是調整研磨機， 固定好粉量。 但墩的方式還是廣泛採納的。</p>
<p>
	　　這以後詳述。 倒是有趣的是， 當我準備寫這篇日記， 好友發問， 自己要比賽， 爲何將較爲核心的知識進行共享。 我只想說的是， 實在不想看到很多年輕選手， 調試好了機器， 在臺上咖啡萃取滴不出來， 這樣的競技是沒有意義的。 而粉量的控制， 根據我這幾年的觀察， 是很多中國咖啡選手的軟肋。 更重要的是，我親眼目睹澳洲2007年開始， 咖啡圈怎樣的交流和共享。 在比賽關鍵時期， 不分門戶， 毫無保留。 如果說， 在那個時期， 依舊是技術，展示起了更多作用話， 那麼澳洲在這方面做了是極其出色的， 而其核心， 正是這個共享。 要知道， 大約在2009年， Matt Perger還是一個18歲的愣頭青。 大家的互幫互助， 2011年已經儼然成爲了世界季軍。 這都是一個小團隊， 和一個大環境帶來的。 在我們抱怨別人無知和幼稚時， 何不把自己所知分享需要之人? 畢竟，每一位比賽的選手都不想冒冒然變成炮灰， 也不是每一位開咖啡店的人極力提供咖啡質量同時卻不知所措。 從我的認知觀， 和價值觀上， 競技的意義還是在於交流和分享。 Michael Philips在講述完萃取概念後， 笑呵呵看着咖啡店裏的年輕咖啡師， &quot;我知道的， 你也知道， 他也知道， 大家都能做好咖啡， 都有錢賺， 豈不皆大歡喜&rdquo;</p>
<p>
	　　來源：</p>
<p>
	　　咖啡人陸先森的博客</p>
'

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'1452224760'

'1452224686'

'咖啡衝煮方式 粉量控制（補充）以及壓粉 做好意式咖啡的標準_咖啡技術_咖啡知識_中國咖啡網'

'咖啡,衝煮,方式,粉量,控制,補充,以及,壓粉,好意,標準'

'提到過刮片， 它可以讓你控制粉量， 但缺點是會浪費粉量。 提到過刮片， 它可以讓你控制粉量， 但缺點是會浪費粉量。 其實， 它還有一個侷限性， 如果一個濾碗可以裝18g粉， 刮片只能靠颳去粉的多少來控制粉量。因此18g的粉碗上限只有18g。 當然， 有些咖啡'

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